Sunday, November 22, 2009

The PJ's...

Since my unexpected stay here in Ct. started I've been steady searching for those new lines. So far I've come across a some large boulders, unfortunately mostly choss. But there are still stunning lines out there. Some of them are all ready to be climbed and some still need to be found. All of the climbs that I have my eye on here in CT are all new lines. I am very excited to hopefully climb some of them during my stay here and also excited to share the media.

Friday, November 20, 2009


"The only constant in life is change." Some good advise my father instilled in me at an early age. I recently had some plans change and now I find myself back in CT for about a month. I am excited to be here since it was unexpected. Hopefully the weather will stay perfect for climbing.

So far the weather has been great. After a few nice days in Rumney I meet up with a friend yesterday at Bradley in my beautiful state of Connecticut. Knowing that climbing at Bradley is kind of a sensitive issue I'll say this. I grew up 20 min away and since the climbing there is risky I do what I can to stay under the radar.

With that said yesterday I was out with my friend shooting for his up coming video project. I was not feeling in top form, 3rd day on and with bruised tips from the previous two days on The Fly. After warming up lightly I ran a lap on Busted Shadow. Then gave The Book a few burn's. I surprised myself with a repeat. That was unexpected I thought, maybe I should give the low low start to Busted Shadow a try. I had done it last year and just need to practice the first move a bit. Then the next thing in knew I had repeated this one as well. Although just repeats I still felt very satisfied. Maybe staying around for a month will not be so bad.

Monday, November 16, 2009

The Magic Forest...

If you love climbing or are wishing to climb in Font watch this movie.

Many climbing films can be repetitive and cliche. This movie contains depth, action, and many many good problems.

Highly recommendable!!!

Sunday, November 15, 2009

Long Day...

So after driving in circles around Boston for three hours and going to the wrong gym, I finally made it to the comp (1.5 hrs late.) I dragged my mate Ty with me who has been busy with lots of school work and hadn't climbed but only twice in that last 3-4 months. We quickly secured our spots in the finals and then waited for the finals to start. Over all, the comp was fun and we had a good time. The final problems were a bit too power endurance for us since we are more accustom to powerful problems but non the less they were set well. I ended up getting 3rd and Ty was somewhere a spot or two behind me. Not bad mate considering, climbing in a pair of my shoes, sharing a chalk bag and climbing off the couch!

I'm not sure what's on my plate for the rest of my time here in CT. The weather look good for next week so I guess I'll see what happens.

I'm really excited to see 2012. THE END IS COMING SOON!!!

Friday, November 13, 2009

The Dark Horse....

Tomorrow I will be going to the first competition of The Dark Horse series, which will be held at Metro Rock in Boston. My friend Dave Wetmore will be setting so the problems should be outstanding.

On a side note I want to explain why some comments were taken off my last blog post. I was unaware of a few access issues and I was politely asked to remove some of my comments concerning PA.

I would never remove a comment based of something I didn't like or found to be insulting. I love to get comments and encourage people to leave comments. They make the blog exciting for me.

I'm not sure how long my time in CT will be. I'm hoping to get in some outdoor climbing since it is November (the best month for conditions). Luckily the weather for tomorrows comp looks like pure hell (80% rain). Great day to be inside without sacrificing a nice day outside.

Tuesday, November 10, 2009


I just arrived back to the Beat (Hartford CT). I was at the Triple Comp at HP40 this weekend, which was great. I didn't win or even place, (Big Surprise). But I did climb much better that I thought I would. The best climbs that I did were, The God Module V11, Slider Sit V10, Hot-n-Tot V10, and Step Child V8. I did a bunch more climbs but those were my fav's. I think I might have ended up 5th so I can't complain too much. My hats off to the winners who climbed very well.

Oh, by the way I only split one little tip at the HP40 comp compared to 6 split tips at Hound Ears...